To bribe or not to bribe?

After nearly three weeks in Thailand I crossed over into Cambodia via a seven hour bus ride. I had read on the internet that it can be tricky to enter the country due to bribes. My advice to you? Stand your ground and refuse to pay.

First break before entering Cambodia. 

It’s true, bribery and fake visa scams are a fact. Apart from that, it was an unforgettable experience for me to enter this country. I immediately sensed a change in the air the minute I neared the border. Being the only African on the bus I certainly got a lot of looks from security. While everyone was processed quickly, I waited for a long time to be attended to while the bus waited. I was frustrated beyond belief, tears rolling down my eyes. At this moment I caught the attention of one immigration officer who asked me how much money I had, how long would I would be staying and where I was going next. He suggested I go to another office where I was met with a bribe request on top of a visa fee.

Cambodian Boarder.

They certainty are not ashamed for asking. I told them I had no extra money. They gave me back my passport and I sat down again and waited for another officer but I didn’t relent about paying extra. This was my worst experience on a border crossing since I started travelling. While everyone on the bus got their visa in about 30 mins, mine took about 90.

Driving into rural Cambodia reminded me a bit of rural areas in Uganda. Cambodia is not as developed as Thailand, so things were a bit different. We arrived in Siem Reap at around 6 pm. I was excited to be in a new environment. After having a difficult time entering the city, the people themselves were so nice. I set out to explore a little bit of Siem Reap at night. They have a Pub street which I really liked. There were many different kinds of restaurants and pubs with a good vibe. Cambodia is cheaper compared to Thailand in terms of food prices with bigger potions.

Some street art.

The pub street.

Siem Reap Night Market.

Later I took a stroll into the night market which I really liked because the prices seemed reasonable.

After wandering around a bit, I had to get back to my hostel but my phone was dead. I found out I walked 2 km away from my hostel until I found a good Samaritan to help me check on his map where I was. Luckily enough, he decided to drop me back to my hostel on his bike.

The good Samaritan.

The following day I woke up at 3:45 am to visit the famous Angkor Wat Temple and other renowned places of worship. I had a one day pass but you can also get a 3 day pass to see all the many temples. It was so cold in the wee hours of the morning riding behind a tuk tuk. The rider took me and another partner to go buy the tickets for the entrance. After getting the tickets we rode for about 40 mins or so to Angkor Wat. It was still dark when we arrived but it was beautiful waiting for the sun to rise behind the temple. We were unlucky for it was cloudy that morning but other than that, it was still spectacular to see the largest religious monument in the world. It was first built as a Hindu temple as a tribute to the god Vishnu but later on gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century. Our tour lasted 90 minutes.

In front of the temple.

Angkor Wat.

From there we headed on to Angkor Thom, another beautiful ancient temple which was the last Capital city of the Khmer empire established in the 12th century. The temple is uniquely built with face towers at each entrance.

One of the face tours.

Angkor Thom temple.

One of the many entrances to the temple.

The last temple I saw was Ta Prohm. The movie “Tomb Raider” was filmed there. It was so amazing with giant trees growing out of the walls with most of it in distinguished ruins. I was so amazed by this and it’s a good spot for taking photos. This is one of Ankor's most popular temples and it was designated a UNESCO site in 1992.

Selfie at the famous location.

Tomb raider location.

Ta Prohm.

Amazing huge roots protruding the temple walls.

After all these three temples, I decided it was time to take a break since it was scotching hot. I relaxed all afternoon before I went out later in the pub with a friend. I did not spend much time in Siem Reap because I had less time in cambodia. But there are some things to do there like visiting the Land mine museum, floating village and enjoying a cooking class. 

My next blog post will take you to Banlung!

Out of Africa - Discovering India

Last fall I took my first steps outside Mama Africa. I was looking for magic and mysticism, so I decided to explore South Asia and the wonder of India and Nepal.

As my plane touched October 15, I was so nervous. The city was big and unfamiliar yet intriguing. I hailed down a taxi just before dawn and came in contact with a driver who was overly friendly—read: harassing. Not the type of welcome I was expecting to say the least. Soon after he dropped me off at my hotel, I learned that my reservation did not exist. So, I reluctantly got back into the taxi with the “friendly” driver who took me to another spot. As I exited, he asked for a hug. I brushed off his unwelcome advances and soon came to learn the first rule of travelling in India if you’re female—sexual harassment is sadly not uncommon. From the metro, to the streets, to inside taxi cabs and from people you’ve trusted, it happens. Travel with a friend and keep a discerning eye. 

India Gate

With the boys having our own street food tour.

Busy Bazaar in New Delhi.

New Delhi was an assault on my senses. People scattering everywhere at different speeds, with cattle and bikes and cars competing for the road. My ears buzzed from the bustle and I experienced culture shock. For two days I did a lot of sightseeing since traffic jams are a way of life. Commuting anywhere is at a snail’s pace. I used the metro quite a lot.

India’s temples are breathtaking. I visited some of the famous worship houses like the Juma Masjid, The Lotus, and The Arkshardam Temple and so on. The architecture is so wonderful and anciently mysterious. The Taj Mahal was quite a place. I recall a kind guide who gave me a free tour because my budget was running low after the entrance fee.

Juma Masjid

Juma Masjid, one of the seven wonders of the world.

I have great news—It’s possible to explore India on a budget! The food was delicious and reasonable priced, but watch out where you eat to avoid stomach problems. And of course Indian food is notoriously fiery, so if you don’t like chili mention it.

Exploring India’s mountains were so refreshing. I took an evening bus to Rishikesh, the famous town known for spirituality and yoga. It felt so organic. The mountains were glorious. The Ganges River looked so beautiful and the people were very friendly. It’s also a good spot to buy souvenirs as it’s cheaper than other towns. The atmosphere was humbling because there’s an air of spirituality. I was able to partake yoga for the first time and since I got back home, I haven’t stopped. I joined a yoga class and love it! If you ride motorbikes, it’s possible to rent a bike and ride up the mountains and around the temples.

Ganges river straight from the Himalayas

Scooter adventure in the mountains.

I didn’t want to leave but the road beckoned. I had options to go further in the mountains to Old Manali or Dharamsala but the distances were too long for me and it was getting colder in high altitudes and I did not dress warmly. I decided to head to the state of Rajasthan (“Land of Kingdoms”) and the cities of Jaipur and Pushkar.

Jaipur turned out to be busier than I expected but I was glad to be there because the architecture was amazing.  Every museum, temple and palace was beautifully constructed simply because the Kings were very rich and their palaces reflected that. There was a water palace in Jaipur which had 5 floors underground. So impressive. The Wind Palace (Hawa Mahal) was built for women royalty who could watch street festivities without being seen, complete with 953 small windows. The Amber Fort and Palace is absolutely a must see! Very incredible views and architecture. It took us about 2 hours or so to finish the tour inside. The city Palace is also not to be missed because there is a fascinating history museum inside.

The Hawa Mahal

The water palace

Amber Fort and Palace

Beautiful doors at the City Palace

Pushkar  is a chill town if you’re looking to avoid the hustle and bustle. There are many temples there and Pushkar Lake is too beautiful for words. Shopping here is way cheap as well. I went here with a friend on his Tuk tuk which was quite adventurous though a bit tiring. 

Tuk tuk ride from Jaipur to Pushkar

One of the beautiful temples in Pushkar

Pushkar lake

I also had a chance to celebrate Diwali (“Festival of Lights”) while in Punjab. Punjab is home of the Sikh religion. The people are very warm with strong faith. While there I visited the Wagarh boarder ceremony, an event which recognizes the closing and opening of the Indian/Pakistani boarder. Soldiers on each side display their strength and pride. The crowd was electric! Music blared and people danced to the rhythm. It was such an interesting ceremony to see, don't miss it!

My other highlight was witnessing the famous Golden Temple. While on tour they welcomed us with tea and treats. They serve food to thousands of people everyday and also offer free accommodation. We were able to witness the Diwali fireworks that night and the mood was great because everyone was in a joyous mood. My sari I had worn that day was hard to keep up with but I had a good time. My friend and I decided to go enter the golden temple where they keep the holy books and it took us about an hour to go in because of the crowd but we were happy we made it. It was spectacular. 

Wagar boarder ceremony

Diwali in Amritsar

The golden temple.

My last stop in India was Varanasi, the oldest inhabited city in the world. The buildings were weathered and the vibe was very busy. I had a boat ride with my friends at the Ganges River because we wanted to see the sunrise. There was a ceremony that day and this was an opportunity to see what goes around the river that millions of Indians depend on. I witness people dipping themselves in the river to get blessings, other were having a bath, washing their clothes, and I witnessed for the first a dead body being burned. I enjoyed having a stroll in the small streets of Varanassi near the river while witnessing life. It is from here that headed into Nepal. 

Festival at the Ganges River

Sunrise over the River Ganges.

India definitely had its challenges, but despite the congestion and overly friendly males, it’s a wonderful country. I met memorable people who were helpful and I’m blessed to have met them. Going to South Asia was a life changing trip! Book your ticket!