The world's biggest Lava Lake.

I dreamed of climbing Nyiragongo Mountain since I first heard of it five years ago. I was always up for a great challenge, but unfortunately something always came up or there was some kind of insecurity in the area. When a friend asked me if I was interested in joining them, I was excited! Why not? My friends though didn’t share my enthusiasm. All they wished was for me to be safe and “don’t come back with ebola.” I knew though this was going to be great and I would learn so much personally and professionally.

Nyiragongo Lava Lake.

I got a bus to Kigali and from there traveled with my friend to Gisenyi, a nice town located to the north of Rwanda and about a kilometer from the Congolese boarder. We arranged for our climb with our guide one day later. The whole day was spent in Gisenyi relaxing and contemplating our climb ahead.

Lake Kivu.

Beauty in Gisenyi.

Our guide picked us at 1 pm as promised to cross with us into the Congo. Everything was very smooth. We waited a few minutes while he was getting our visas. From the moment I crossed borders, there was serious check points to prevent the spread of Ebola. We had to wash our hands and our temperatures were checked. At least this made me feel safer. I remembered a few months back I had said I would not enter Congo because of the EBOLA virus. But none of those thoughts came to mind because I was excited to enter a new country. Within a few minutes of waiting, we obtained our visas and climbing permits.

Happy faces after getting into DRC.

After some delicious lunch at our hotel, our guide said we would have a walk in the city. You know everyone thinks Congo is very unsafe but I was comfortable walking in Goma. It’s a very busy city which kind of reminded me of Kampala. The city is full of volcano rocks because of the eruption that occurred there and the resulting relocation of the population. The whole city was destroyed during the catastrophe. However, these rocks have been put to use for construction.

Dry magma monument in Goma city.

Kids on one of the famous wooden bikes.

We were picked up in the morning after breakfast to go start the hike. First we had to report to the Virunga rangers who checked our identities and escorted us to our beginning point. Since the kidnap of tourists, security was vigilant. Our rangers were by our side at all times and were very good to us. We had about 5 rest stops before we made it to the stop, and were fed on every stop which kept our energy levels high. The theme of the climb was ‘pole pole’ which means “ slowly slowly”. They made sure we did not get worn out. The ranger told me not to worry because the pace was consistent with the slowest walker. It started getting harder where we found many volcanic stones where you could easily slide and fall but we had sticks and we were extremely cautious. Although we had some minor rain, the cooler temps was refreshing.

Excitement before the  climb

Overlooking down on Goma.

The hike became increasingly more challenging but my resolve was undeterred. We got a few breaks in between before we made it to the top. The visibility was cloudy but the view became more glorious the closer we got to the sky!

My favorite ranger who gave me all the attention.

Wild plants seen during the climb.

At three thousand, four hundred, and 70 meters, we reached the peak. It was awesome! Two years prior there was an eruption at the volcano where we stood. I reflected on that, on the destruction it caused below, but also on the beauty of mother nature. Every challenge, difficulty, and cuss I spoke along the way was worth it. A full six hours of exercise was required (an average hike). The volcano was so huge compared to the one I witnessed in Ethiopia. This is the largest lava crater lake in the world with 2km each way.

It was raining when we got there but later it stopped and everything was well defined. We could see Lake Kivu, the mountains, Goma and Gisenyi. We were above the clouds! 

When we arrived, the view was a bit smoky.

The Congolese flag says it all.

Above the clouds.

We took some tea to warm ourselves up because it was so cold! You need all the winter gear available to you! As we took in the sights we enjoyed a delicious dinner gazing upon city lights from Gisenyi and Goma. After dinner we went over the volcano and sat by it for a while because it was so amazing, and we could not get over it! At some point we had the full moon and the fire below us-- how cool is that? I was glad to have seen this and tick it off my bucket list.

Off I went to bed with all the memories and the sound of the volcano though it took me some time to sleep because it was so cold! We got up so early to catch the sunrise and watch the volcano again. So beautiful! I felt like every time I glanced at the volcano, it looked more beautiful. We saw everything surrounding us so clearly!

Full moon and red smoke.

I couldn't take my eyes off. 

After breakfast it was time to descend. This was not as easy but we still got some breaks along the way. We made it in four hours. 

Morning View of the lake.

On a clear morning you can Lake Kivu.

Going down on the volcanic rocks and stones was a bit much for me but I have no regrets. We were driven back to the boarder and soon said goodbye. I wish I could have spent a few days in Goma.You have to climb Nyiragongo if you can. It is such an amazing experience you’ll forever remember! To be literally on top of the world is a feeling like no other. 

Let me know if you would like to do this adventure sometime.

The Karamajong, Uganda's Nomadic Warriors.

I remember when I was growing up, we heard stories about the Karamojong. I heard they lived a simple life, drank cow blood and had few possessions-- not even clothes. It was really interesting to hear all about this. When I saw them on TV I was intrigued.

A leader of a tribe. Photo by Paul. 

My client and two Karamajong warriors. 

The Karamojong have survived years of insecurity in north-east Ugan

da where they lived. There were disputes with cattle and herders owning guns to protect their livestock. I remember my teacher telling us the Karamajong believe all the cows

in the world belong to them. The disputes led to violence which led to loss of life. Some left the region out of fear for their safety. It was not until 2005 when the government outlawed guns that peace returned.

There are tons of cows in this region. 

Early this year I had the chance to visit the region with a client and it was unforgettable. We broke our journey in two by stopping over Sipi Falls and then continued to Moroto. It is not advisable to travel all this journey in one day. Moroto is a district in Northern Uganda about 405 km from Kampala going via Mbale.

Upon arriving we noticed the style of huts (manyatas) are different. They are small and the entrance is very tiny for security purposes. The Karimojong are naturally tall and skinny so entering their homes isn't an issue.

The tiny entrance into the Manyatta. 

A big food storage pot. 

A young boy milking a goat. 

The new generation of Karamojongs are clothed. Women wear hand- made woven skirts made from a blanket known as “Nakatukok” with unique jewelry. The men usually tie a blanket around their waistline topped with a vest or nothing above the waist if they feel like it. Their blankets are used to cover themselves overnight when they go grazing and spend the night in the kraal. They also have a special kind of a tiny wooden sitting stool they travel with used as a pillow or sitting.

Animals are very important when you live a nomadic life. There were tons of goats in the compound and the cows were out grazing. Usually livestock is used for transaction purposes. For example, if I want my child to go to school, I might as well hand in some goats instead of cash. The more cows you have, the more your wealth. You may also have more wives hence becoming a chief of the village.

A Karamojong diet includes milk, meat, cow blood and sorghum. Nothing sweet. No oils for cooking. You can't notice but wonder when you see seniors with strong teeth how much food consumption plays a part in their health.

The men tie a blanket around their waists.

Woven skirts by the Karamajong women. 

We were lucky when we arrived, it was the community get to together and dance. The dancing movement required lots of energy with high jumps! It’s kind of similar to how the Masai dance themselves. After 30 minutes we were exhausted!

Community games. 

The dance. 

The Cheerleader. 

We were taken to a Kraal where we had to spend a night with some nomadic warriors along with kids aged 4 to 10 grazing cows, sheep and goats. It’s believed teaching these skills to the youth prepare them to be responsible men. With our camp fire lit, we listened to stories while we stared at the sky, the stars were very bright with refreshing air. The next morning we woke up to a gorgeous sunrise behind Moroto Mountain! You cannot miss this. Be sure to be up by 6:20 am at the latest.

Our camp Fire. 

A kid having raw milk and fresh blood from a cow. 

Sunrise over Mt Moroto. 

We rode our bicycles to some other communities with Mount Moroto in the distance. I, myself, am not a good cyclist but we had a wonderful team of leaders who led us through the trails and were very concerned about our safety. It was a great work out for the day.

Having a rest after cycling. 

At the end of the trail. 

If you have more time, there are trails that you can hike on Mount Moroto where you can immerse yourself into the daily life of the Tepeth community who are believed to be the indigenous owners of the Karamoja savanna. How they’ve built their huts on top of the toppling rocks along Nadukon valley is a marvel.

 This Northern part of Uganda is rich in nature inhabited by a people who have not forgotten their humble roots. There is so much to do and experience! You’ll love it!

South Africa, My New Found Love!

South Africa was not on my list this year of places to explore. Zambia, Namibia and Botswana were, but my budget and work commitments did not allow it. I heard it was difficult to obtain a visa for Africa’s southern tip, but I tried and thankfully I was accepted!

Skyline of Johannesburg.

 

Johannesburg was unlike any other place I’ve ever experienced. South Africa’s largest city (4.5 million citizens according to Wikipedia) is colourful and diverse. A tour opened my eyes to street art that made my eyes pop. I loved their art galleries and museums. The skyline view was rich with skyscrapers that kissed the sky.

Soweto was quite an experience. I expected to see only people in tough economic circumstances as it houses the biggest slum in Africa, but every social status lives there—rich, middle-class, and in between. Posh houses were not too far from ram-shacked houses built of iron sheets. The history in this place was really interesting. Everything I had learned was from school but it was good to hear first hand about history with some evidence. Nelson Mandela's first home is here, a single-story red brick house. Archbishop Desmond Tutu’s place is not too far away.

Strolling down Maboneng- Joburg

Jumping over Clean streets.

A building with Mandela's painting in Maboneng.

In the background is one of the 2010 World Cup stadiums in Soweto.

On this trip I was able to visit my penpal whom I have been writing for four years. We visited the Mandela National Museum (or Mandela House) which is a must see. We also visited the Cradle of Humankind, a world heritage site that tells the story of “stones and bones.” It was interesting to learn about the evolution of our species. It was cool to go inside a cave and witness ancient carvings.

Pretoria was visited on a rainy day but South Africa’s capital city did not disappoint. You must visit the union buildings. They house government offices and if you’re lucky, maybe you’ll see President Jacob Zuma as his office is there. The union buildings also offer an amazing view of the city. The Voortrekker Monument, located just south of Pretoria, is a huge granite monument on a hilltop that tells the story of Dutch settlers. The history of the great trek is told with illustrations carved in stone.

My penpal Lizelle and her husband while at the Mandela Museum.

The Apartheid Museum.

Maropeng- Cradle of Human Kind.

Mandela's statue.

The union buildings.

As my time to leave Johannesburg arrived I was looking forward to Cape Town. I traveled to O.R Tambo International Airport on a posh train known as the Gautrain. It took only about 15 minutes from the downtown core, and the flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town was about an hour. If you’re on a leisurely pace, you can easily drive there. The sights on the coastline are gorgeous.

Cape Town was the highlight of my trip! The city was so nice and clean. It was  modern and majestic with beautiful ancient architecture (my favourite). I had to remind myself that I was still in Africa, it looked like a European nirvana. I took a million photos as the city left quite an impression. Table Mountain and Lion’s Head are such a beautiful backdrop to Cape Town. The sunsets are spectacular.

Some of the architecture in Cape Town.

The view of Lion's head from Table Mountain.

On Table Mountain.

Magical sunsets in Cape Town over the Ocean.

Be sure to bring your hiking shoes and climb Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. You can go alone or with some friends because using a guide is pretty expensive. We climbed up taking a longer route that was less hectic. Back down we used a cable car because it was a tiring hike. Afterwards we ended up by the beach and watched some amazing sunsets and waves.

While in the area I suggest you check out Bo-Kaap, a colourful Muslim township located on the slopes of Signal Hill. The neighbourhood houses every colour of the rainbow lined with cobble-stone streets. Walking and bus tours are available. From there I traveled along the Garden Route of the Eastern Cape which is one of the most scenic areas I’ve ever seen. It’s named as such for their natural gardens and magnificent forests. Since I’m such an adrenaline seeker, I was looking forward to jumping off the highest bridge in the world located at Tsisikama National Park. It’s 216  meters high (don’t need to be an engineer to know that’s a long way up). I had never tried bungee jumping but was anxious to try and placed my faith with the good people at “Face Adrenalin- Bloukrans Bungy.” The instructors are great and put you at ease with their professionalism as music plays while you’re getting strapped up. I took the plunge and had no time to think about how fast I was travelling in the air. When I reached my destination 700 plus feet below, the fear was gone but the euphoria remained. It was so energizing.

Bo-kaap neighborhood.

Bloukrans bungee bridge at 216 meters.

The big jump!

Do you know there’s such a thing as African penguins? Yep! They’re located at Boulders Beach in the Cape peninsular near Simon's Town towards the Cape Point. Absolutely adorable as they waddle through sparkling sand. If you like big jaws maybe you’ll see sharks or goofy seals like I did at Muizenburg Beach. We had our lunch inside the Cape of Good Hope section of Table Mountain National Park with the ocean providing a spectacular view. If you’d like to sample some grapes a wine farm is nearby.

Chapmans Peak Drive (affectionately known as “Chappies”) is about a twenty minute ride from Cape Town and is a beautiful coastal road. It’s ideal for cyclists and many American movies have been filmed here. My last evening in Cape Town was enjoyed with a friend when we went bar hopping on Long Street, a famous party neighbourhood.

Muizenburg beach.

Trying a headstand on the way to the Cape of Good Hope.

Penguins at Boulders bridge.

Chapman's drive.

Camps Bay, the Beverly Hills of Cape Town.

Cape of Good Hope

Before leaving Cape Town I had to visit Robben Island Museum and see where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated along with so many political prisoners. It was sad to hear about apartheid’s past through the stories of former inmates but these stories should never be forgotten.

I flew to Durban though I did not do much here here. I spent two nights here, I went walking around with a friend and then spent sometime at the beach where by we got chance to visit the marine park. If you are into water sports activities, Durban would be great for you.  

At Ribben Island with Table Mountain in the back.

Along a beach in Durban.

Beautiful architecture.

At the marine park with a mate.

I finalised my time in South Africa along the Drakensberg mountains. There is a gorgeous waterfall located at the top; Tugela Falls, the highest on the continent at 983 meters (3,200 feet) and second in the world. I even saw snow for the first time (who would’ve thought I’d see penguins and snow on Africa’s southern tip!). These last three days was a perfect way to end my travels. I stayed at a hostel named The Amphitheatre  Backpackers lodge, a beautiful place to stay if you’re on a budget.

If you’re in the area, don’t miss the Drakensberg Amphitheatre; it houses one of the most beautiful cliffs on earth.

Snow!

Tugela Water fall.

Breathtaking views.

Ascending down after the hike.

We made it to the top!

There is crime in South Africa, but like every populated country you should be smart and aware of your surroundings. If you go around at night, take a licensed taxi. South Africa isn’t cheap, so I recommend preparing your own meals to save your dollars for the big sights.

South Africa is internationally known for its beauty. Its the most amazing in Africa according to research. Experience it. I guarantee it’ll live in your heart long after you return home.

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