The Karamajong, Uganda's Nomadic Warriors.

I remember when I was growing up, we heard stories about the Karamojong. I heard they lived a simple life, drank cow blood and had few possessions-- not even clothes. It was really interesting to hear all about this. When I saw them on TV I was intrigued.

A leader of a tribe. Photo by Paul. 

My client and two Karamajong warriors. 

The Karamojong have survived years of insecurity in north-east Ugan

da where they lived. There were disputes with cattle and herders owning guns to protect their livestock. I remember my teacher telling us the Karamajong believe all the cows

in the world belong to them. The disputes led to violence which led to loss of life. Some left the region out of fear for their safety. It was not until 2005 when the government outlawed guns that peace returned.

There are tons of cows in this region. 

Early this year I had the chance to visit the region with a client and it was unforgettable. We broke our journey in two by stopping over Sipi Falls and then continued to Moroto. It is not advisable to travel all this journey in one day. Moroto is a district in Northern Uganda about 405 km from Kampala going via Mbale.

Upon arriving we noticed the style of huts (manyatas) are different. They are small and the entrance is very tiny for security purposes. The Karimojong are naturally tall and skinny so entering their homes isn't an issue.

The tiny entrance into the Manyatta. 

A big food storage pot. 

A young boy milking a goat. 

The new generation of Karamojongs are clothed. Women wear hand- made woven skirts made from a blanket known as “Nakatukok” with unique jewelry. The men usually tie a blanket around their waistline topped with a vest or nothing above the waist if they feel like it. Their blankets are used to cover themselves overnight when they go grazing and spend the night in the kraal. They also have a special kind of a tiny wooden sitting stool they travel with used as a pillow or sitting.

Animals are very important when you live a nomadic life. There were tons of goats in the compound and the cows were out grazing. Usually livestock is used for transaction purposes. For example, if I want my child to go to school, I might as well hand in some goats instead of cash. The more cows you have, the more your wealth. You may also have more wives hence becoming a chief of the village.

A Karamojong diet includes milk, meat, cow blood and sorghum. Nothing sweet. No oils for cooking. You can't notice but wonder when you see seniors with strong teeth how much food consumption plays a part in their health.

The men tie a blanket around their waists.

Woven skirts by the Karamajong women. 

We were lucky when we arrived, it was the community get to together and dance. The dancing movement required lots of energy with high jumps! It’s kind of similar to how the Masai dance themselves. After 30 minutes we were exhausted!

Community games. 

The dance. 

The Cheerleader. 

We were taken to a Kraal where we had to spend a night with some nomadic warriors along with kids aged 4 to 10 grazing cows, sheep and goats. It’s believed teaching these skills to the youth prepare them to be responsible men. With our camp fire lit, we listened to stories while we stared at the sky, the stars were very bright with refreshing air. The next morning we woke up to a gorgeous sunrise behind Moroto Mountain! You cannot miss this. Be sure to be up by 6:20 am at the latest.

Our camp Fire. 

A kid having raw milk and fresh blood from a cow. 

Sunrise over Mt Moroto. 

We rode our bicycles to some other communities with Mount Moroto in the distance. I, myself, am not a good cyclist but we had a wonderful team of leaders who led us through the trails and were very concerned about our safety. It was a great work out for the day.

Having a rest after cycling. 

At the end of the trail. 

If you have more time, there are trails that you can hike on Mount Moroto where you can immerse yourself into the daily life of the Tepeth community who are believed to be the indigenous owners of the Karamoja savanna. How they’ve built their huts on top of the toppling rocks along Nadukon valley is a marvel.

 This Northern part of Uganda is rich in nature inhabited by a people who have not forgotten their humble roots. There is so much to do and experience! You’ll love it!

Banlung - an off the beaten path gem.

If you’re in Cambodia and looking for a gorgeous, quaint, and relatively tourist- free location, have I got the place for you! Located in the Ratanakiri province in the northeastern part of the country, the capital of Banlung offers a welcome respite. There’s peace, a crater lake, and lovely sunsets.

Oh boy what sunsets! After chilling by the pool at the hostel I took in the sights from the bar. Later I took a walk in the small town (population 18k) to find something to eat for dinner but it was quite a challenge because English was not happening with menus strictly in Cambodian. I did my best by pointing to what others had on their plates and decided to let my eyes make the decision.

Gorgeous sunset.

The next day my travel mates and I decided to rent bikes for a sight-seeing adventure. It was a challenging ride with unpaved roads on dirt paths. We visited a Buddhist temple which revealed a great view from the top of the hill. From there, the spectacular Katieng Waterfall. It’s gorgeous as you experience the top of the flow with water flying down. You can also dip your feet in and it’s ideal for Instagram snaps.

Right before our adventure began.

At the temple grounds.

The view from the temple.

Katieng Waterfall.

Cha Ong was another beautiful waterfall that does allow swimming for a hot day. Bonus—a swinging bridge is nearby to take in a better view of the sights. The place is very green here with tress to keep you cool in the shade.

Cha Ong Waterfall.

The bridge above the river.

Right after lunch we went to visit the famous Lake Yeak Laom crater lake. Everything about it is gorgeous! So serene and beautiful. It occupies a 4, 000 year old volcanic crater with clear and pure water. We did swim here and took our time which was relaxing. There was a swinging rope used to dive in the lake which people seemed to be enjoying.

Lake Yeakom Laom.

Fun time.

My travel mates and I.

Taking in the view.

The next morning we went on a two day trek in the Ratanakiri jungle. It was a fabulous time, the guide was really enthusiastic. What a shame though seeing the lack of preservation to this ancient site—many distinguished and vintage redwoods were being chopped for the sake of housing. While discovering I had the pleasure of meeting some ants who got too personal and injected a stinging liquid in my skin. It hurt for a bit but wasn’t itchy. It seemed like my 'welcome to the jungle!' We trekked for about five hours and a lot was experienced on this day. We drank water from a piece of wood (called a water tree I believe). We stopped by the stream of water to have a packed lunch while we relaxed and sampled some wild bush seeds and sweet sugar cane. It felt great to breathe some fresh air. We continued on our way with the sounds of machines destroying nature from a distance.

Break during the trek.

Beautiful trees in the nature.

Having a drink from a piece of wood.

Upon reaching our destination for the evening we hung our hammocks and gazed upon the moonlight hovering over the redwoods. There was a stream of water to swim nearby or take a relaxing bath. Our guide made a fire while we brought some firewood. Our meal consisted of bamboo stick rice, chicken and veggies  that our guide had retrieved during the trek topped off with a glass of rice wine. The meal was placed on a fire and rotated from time to time to make sure it was evenly cooked.

Our view at the campsite.

Perfect for a good swim.

Hammocks hung for the night.

Our rice being cooked.

The guide scooping out the rice.

After dinner it was suggested we go hunt frogs which would later be served. We were in shock! He captured 7 of them and I saw the eighth one. Even though he asked me to catch it, I could not bring myself to do it. The frogs were placed in a bottle and sprinkled with salt. Our guide shook the contents and I wondered if the salt had killed them. He then got them out of the bottle, cleaned the insides, washed them and then they were deep fried to sleep with salt. Voila! Ready to eat. I was really nervous about trying them, I had to close my eyes, but wow! Delicious! We all ended up having a second frog. Sorry Kermit, but you were yummy.

Frogs being fried.

Frog ready to eat.

To eat the frog or not.

After breakfast, it was yet another day of trekking back to the starting point using another route. We came across beautiful views of the greenery that we didn’t see earlier. We ate some wild bananas on the way. These are interesting because they have big seeds in them. We made sure to take breaks whenever we could while we enjoyed mother nature. After about 6 hours, we made it back to the starting point and had some lunch. I highly recommend the tour, you learn so much!

Having a break on our way back.

Wild banana.

Our favourite cook.

Seeing how far I had come.

Banlung is not the easiest place to get to, but it’s well worth the wait. Enjoy mother nature in this beautiful Province of Ratanakiri.

The crater district of Uganda.

Fortportal is a district in western Uganda located 261 km from Kampala. It’s easily accessible by private or public transit. I first visited in 2015 during Easter weekend with friends and fell deeply in love with it. So will you!

Stunning view of a crater.

Tea Plantations along the road

We caught a bus thinking the journey would take us 4 hours but it took about 5 hours. It was a long bus journey but the scenery makes up for it. There is so much green and cleaner air away from the capital. The forests and tea plantation s along the way look spectacular.
We got to the town quite late but had a taxi organised for to take us to our hostel.
In the morning everything was very clear with the majestic peak of Rwenzori mountain greeting us. The forests were emerald green with a crater lake right in front of our rooms. We had a wonderful walking tour where we learned of beautiful gardens and plants. We ended up at the Mahoma Falls for a shower. Everything was picture worthy.

On a walking tour with our guide Noah

Beautiful trees on our walking path.

Mountain Rwenzori view.

Shower at Mahoma falls

Our guide Noah hired motorbikes for us and rode in the far parts of the district. Driving through Kibale National Park was quite a sight as a number of monkeys said hello along the way. We ended up at an area known locally as "Top of the world," a spectacular 360° view of Mother Nature. We were tired but euphoric.

Rented bikes

Top of the world,

Half Way to Heaven.

There is a lot of monkey business here in Fort Portal (seriously). There is a good chance you’ll see a chimpanzees amongst the green during the tracking in Kibale Forest. You can also visit the Kitagata hot springs which are said to have healing powers. The short hike there is also great considering the views of the surrounding nature.

Queen Elizabeth National Park is a short distance and it’s an idea for a day safari from Fortportal and ideal for those on a budget.

I have been going to Fortportal every year since I first set foot here. I have taken friends and clients here.

My favourite place to stay is the Ayapapa Open House, an eco friendly accommodation located in Lyantonde village just before Papaya Lodge. I was introduced to this place by friends who stayed here and fell in love with it. This place is a beautifully designed open house and has cabins overlooking Crater Lake. The owner has planted trees and flowers all over the area. There is resting place overlooking the lake, not to mention a big kitchen. It is a self-catering accommodation and you can easily chill in the hammocks while you read a book. On a hot day, you can easily hop into the lake for a swim and cool off. If you love nature and prefer peace and quiet, this is your place. Jaishu the owner will help you with anything.

Breakfast overlooking the lake surrounded by roses.

One of the lounging areas.

The Kitchen.

My favorite spot.

Experience Fortportal! It would be my pleasure to help you arrange your trip.